can you believe this is: london, a summary

as i begin to write this, i’m sat on a train speeding through the countryside toward york. even though i was in london for nearly two full weeks, i feel as though i’ve only just scratched the surface. it’s confusing and energetic and crowded and was beginning to feel rather like home.

this morning meant packing up all my things again (having already forgotten just how much i had fit in my bag) and departed for king’s cross. last night, however, i attended an event in the newly opened hackney arts centre which was hosted by author neil gaiman and illustrator chris riddell, called ‘art matters.’

neil and chris were unpredictably witty, articulate, and passionate. neil read his ‘make good art’ speech and a couple of poems, chris occasionally managed to upstage him with his live drawings, and both spoke eloquently about their careers and the need for art in society. there was a surprisingly thrilling and pricey auction for several of chris’ original illustrations of neil’s words. the proceeds went to a charity promoting the arts and aiding writers and artists who have been incarcerated for their works. everyone received a signed copy of the book the event shared its name with, and the event came to a close.

it’s always inspiring to hear the stories of people who have ‘made it’ in the arts. it feels good to know that you can do what you please and, if you do it well, you can survive doing only that. it’s comforting, as well, to listen to these successful people talk about the things they’ve done which hadn’t worked, or were never finished, or haven’t found a good place in a finished work yet. it’s a good reminder that everyone feels that way.

i’m very glad i went. it was a beautiful way to bring the london leg of my journey to a close, especially as it might have otherwise been pretty rough to occupy those last late hours. it almost feels as though i’ve just left home again and the actual vacation is beginning now. i’m not sure how that sits with me. i do know that i miss it. as today has progressed i’ve found myself missing the vastness of opportunity in london. there’s loads of very cool, very old stuff here in york (and i’ll share much of it at a later date) but it feels… emptier, even when the streets are just as crowded with people.

i loved being in london, with all of my heart. there’s a real magic to it which comes across in any books or films or anything else which is set there, and i thought, for a long time, that it was a product of the fantasy, of the writing, of the way the characters interact with it. it is not; it is real and just past tangible, like a mirage sparkling on the streets.

there is a cruelty there, true, as in all places where the wealthy make their mark, but there is also a self-awareness. there are so many people sleeping rough, but the city seems to recognise (if not always in the most helpful way) that they are there. no one tries to hide it. many might turn and look the other way, but there are too many standing and shouting for anyone to truly forget what’s wrong. certainly nobody’s solved them yet, but everyone’s aware of the problems. they’re talking about them, and that’s a big leap ahead of many of the cities i’ve seen before.

on that note, there are some rumours which i would like to dispute. while i was preparing for my trip, many people mentioned that londoners aren’t particularly nice–they are, they’re just… very very busy. there are unspoken rules about the tube or about food service which may seem strange, but i met plenty of people who were more than willing to help. many people also told me that food would be very pricey–but i’ve found it’s easier to find affordable food in london than in york, so far. york is another big tourist destination, though, so maybe the scales will balance out once i’ve seen the rest of the country.

i almost hope that it’s not all that different.

london, to me, is The Place That Everywhere Else Is Trying To Be. not in that every other city in the world is trying to copy it, per se, but london does the things any city needs or wants to do in the best way possible. it feels vast and impenetrable, but it’s personal and human. it’s winding and organic and non-euclidean, but direct and easy to navigate. the sense of history is there, but also the sense of change, personality, and practicality. public spaces are there, and they are used often! it’s a spectacular place to fall in love, and an even better place to have your heart broken. i can’t imagine a more potent place.

i met the most wonderful people and saw the most wonderful things in london. no matter how long it takes, this trip won’t be the last of me that it sees. i certainly will be seeing it in everywhere else.

there’s a reason they call it The City.